A specific version of the first pasta sauce my father taught me to cook. The combination of smokiness and freshness is the key feature of this version of a classic Italian tomato sauce that is healthy and utterly delicious, whether the vegetarian version or one with bacon.
This is a very specific version of the first pasta sauce my father ever taught me to cook. It's very much like this dish I've already published on here. Unlike that version, I always use these particular ingredients for a special occasion—such as cooking it for my oldest friend last night—and it can't be rushed. I call it "typing pasta" because it's long cooking time works perfectly when I'm grappling with a text. The ingredients aren't fancy; basic even. But it is very special and, yes, I have witnesses prepared to testify to that.
Denton, my father, learned it at some point in the 1960s in southern Italy. Given his maritime nature, I'm guessing it was either somewhere near Naples, Venice or Taranto. But, I don't remember the details of where he actually learned this one. That in itself is a bit unusual because as a "port brat", I grew up completely inspired by his tales of the places he'd charmed some local into handing over age-old traditional recipes. He loved to cook and I love to cook as much through admiring the great journeys the recipes he handed down to me survived as anything else.
With this one, it's not only about the ingredients, but also about the quantities. I have no scientific proof that it makes a difference, but it somehow always seems at its best when I cook it in larger quantities (as below). These portions readily feed 6 people. But, it's also freezes very well. So, I cook it in larger quantities and freeze portions appropriately.
This recipe readily feeds 6 adults, but pay attention to the bacon and peas part. Unless you're serving it to a larger party of diners, I prefer to freeze portions before the bacon and peas are added (if at all) and add these appropriate to when you're serving it. Yes, you can scale it down, but, no, I never do: my inner Italian mama has taught me otherwise.
It works very well with a simple side salad and a little bread, if you like. But, last night I served it as a main course—yes, I see all you posh Italians shrinking in horror—as part of a three-course dinner that didn't warrant them given the other courses. I know my friend Chrys didn't mind: besides my siblings and cousins, she's only person alive who experienced—or at least vividly remembers—Denton's cooking. It was a culinary love affair at first taste.
Shopping list
1 tin of chopped plum tomatoes
1 tin of peeled plum tomatoes in their juice
4 tbspns of chopped smoked garlic (DIY or something like this)
2 large red bell peppers (ideally very ripe); finely cubed
2 large red onions, chopped
A large glass (at least 250ml) dry white wine
4 tbspns tomato purée
4 tbspns of dried oregano
1 tspn dried cumin
2 tbspns capers, very finely chopped
1 vegetable stock cube or jelly diluted in about 400ml of boiling water
12 rashers of thick-cute smoked bacon; roughly sliced
1 cup of garden peas (fresh or frozen, not tinned)
Olive oil — as much as it takes
3 squares of dark chocolate (min 70% cocoa), finely grated
Salt and pepper to taste
"Long" pasta of choice (my current favourite is De Cecco Linguine No.7, but don't underestimate a good humble spaghetti)
parmesan or grana padano cheese; grated (optional)
Cooking Method
In a large saucepan, add a little olive oil and heat. When the oil is hot, add the 3 tbspns of the smoked garlic. When it starts to turn golden, add the red onions
When the onions begin to soften, add two thirds of the oregano, the cumin and the chopped capers. Stir thoroughly, allowing the herbs to "breathe"
Add the red bell pepper, stirring the ingredients. Once the red peppers show signs of softening, add half of the white wine and allow to cook off
Add both tins of tomatoes and bring to a brisk boil, stirring occasionally. While the tomatoes are brought to the boil, add the remaining wine, small quantities at a time, and allow it to cook in, stirring occasionally
Once the wine has been absorbed and the tomatoes are at a hearty boil, pour in the tomato purée and stock diluted together in approx. 400ml of boiling water. Stir, cover and allow the ingredients to boil vigorously for 10 mins
Stir and reduce the heat to the point where the contents are barely simmering. Cook on a low heat for 4 to 6 hours, stirring approx. every 15 mins (yes, you have that app on your phone!), adding the remaining oregano after about the first hour of cooking. Only add the salt and pepper at this point too—taste it: if it doesn't need it, don't add them. If the sauce appears to be thickening too quickly, simply top up with a little more water, stir in and allow it to get back to reducing.
After the sauce has been cooking on a low heat for at least 4 hours, add the grated chocolate and stir continually: it will thicken right before your eyes. At this point, you can either remove the sauce from the heat, cool and portion for freezing/refrigeration OR, progress on to the second part...
In a shallow frying pan, heat a little olive oil on a high heat. Add remaining smoked garlic, followed shortly afterwards by the bacon and fry very briefly, adding a little oregano if you wish. The aim is to "seal" it, not to cook it
Add the bacon and all of its juices to the pot, gently mixing in. Add the peas (frozen is fine) and stir in. Turn up the heat slightly and allow these two elements to blend in while you cook your pasta for a final 10 or so minutes
Cook your pasta during this last phase of the sauce's cooking. Plate and garnish with a grated hard cheese of choice
Variations
Vegetarians and vegans
This is essentially a vegan sauce until the bacon is added. And, there's no reason it requires it—I'm often such a greedy gubbins that I don't bother and I've never felt I was missing anything. But, if you do want that mildly smoky thing this dish has, the best plant-based option in my experience is vegan tempeh "bacon". Treat it exactly as the bacon in the recipe about and be sure not to add it too early or else it breaks down—not in a great way.
Pescatarians
I've banged on enough about smoked mussels for you to know I think they're capable of curing all the world's evils. Replace the bacon with smoked mussels, (approx. 1 small tin per 2 to 3 diners) draining off all excess oil before adding them—they don't need to be "sealed" before adding, but those few minutes in the smoked garlic is really a good thing.
Pairings
Obviously it calls for a red. Personally I think lighter works better than heavier with this one; a bit of contrapunto etc. Another one poor Karel's work list, but I was really impressed that last night my friend Chrys got it perfect based on barely a few adjectives: the Chilean Indomita Gran Reserva Carignan was totally on the money for this unpretentious dish.
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