The remission in recent months from London's COVID-19 emergency meant that I was lucky enough to be treated by a friend to revisiting a very special Modern Italian eatery, a place that arrived hand-in-hand with the city's artists, designers and makers breathing a different life into this patch of the East End.
Some weeks ago my co-conspirator, friend and Creative Director of the wonderful luxury fragrance brand that bears her name, Sarah Baker, invited me to lunch at Lardo, the perfect punctuation in a productive day cooking up the creative juices on her branding, strategy and general plans for independent perfume global domination. And, yes, if you know about my love of the word “lard” (especially because of its Beuysian connotations, said the pretentious art person) then you’ll know they pretty much had me at the name the first time I came here.
One of the things that was notable as we sauntered there—we’d last been there more than a year before thanks to the nature of the pandemic—was Sarah’s continued appreciation and enthusiasm for the place. It’s one thing to encounter someone committed to supporting local independent businesses, which she does, but it’s far less common to hear her or him loyally extoll the joys of a local eatery that, as “ a local”, is by now deeply familiar. And that was lovely to see.
Enjoying the clement weather on Lardo’s spacious terrace, it really was a treat, starting with impeccable renditions of the classic appertivo, Aperol spritz. Much to my delight (and increasing chagrin) this iconic mix long available across the European continent has only really hit UK shores as a critical mass in the last few years. Unlike other British places trying to squeeze those profit margins through meanness, Lardo do them properly.
I am not going to insult the integrity of this singular kitchen by trying to pretend that I remember all the dishes ordered. It really is the kind of place that means it when it says that the menu is created from the best seasonal ingredients. And what we ate a couple of months ago, it seems, is already oh, so last season…
Or, maybe I’m just too embarrassed to admit just how much we ordered. But between the pizze cooked to perfection in the wood-fired oven, the impeccable salad and small plates combining the best quality, mouthwatering ingredients, it was once again a delight to enjoy the flavours of Lardo’s authentic Italian cuisine with a contemporary artisan twist. Perfect peperoncini, lusciously moist ‘nduja, plump burrata and locally sourced artisan coppa di testa o soppressata were all somehow involved.
And, in fairness to us should it seem excessive, takeaway boxes were required when we finally left.
Some cultural economists say that restaurants most clearly articulate the regeneration of particular neighbourhoods. Lardo is no exception, though certainly exceptional. Summing up London’s most recent “regeneration miracle” in the area around London Fields, what goes on in Lardo’s kitchen is a culinary mirror reflecting the energy of the newer generation of artists, makers and craftspeople who moved to the area attracted by once more affordable workspaces.
And, bluntly, being old enough to remember when Genesis P. Orridge and Thee Temple ov Psychick Youth used to run bizarre parties in a neighbouring building now home to many artists’ studios, and almost all of what you could find locally were greasy spoon “caffs” and questionable takeaway joints, I don’t think this is a bad direction.
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