This is an homage to European fish soup meals that grew out of the challenge of my having to produce low-carb dishes. I think it's a good example of how a few pesky dietary restrictions can lead to solutions that might even be better than the original.
A few years ago I was scratching my head with ways to overcome the boredom of a near-zero-carb regime. At that time I was craving one of my favourite Scottish meal soups (that I plan to stick up here some time soon) but that, being Scottish, it contains potatoes.
So this was the result, which started out as mimicking the fish soup traditions of Northern Europe, but organically morphed into culturally appropriating the fish soup traditions from elsewhere on the Continent too, mainly through the vegetables I used. Yup, it's a bit of a Eurosoup.
This recipe is for 2 diners. Switch on your phones and access your calculators if you want to cook it for a larger group of of dining buddies.
Shopping list
1 large red onion; roughly diced
Extra virgin olive oil; about 2 tabspns
1 cup good fish stock
2 Earl Grey teabags
Celeriac, about three-quarters to one whole standard-size celeriac i.e. roughly the same volume as 2 large potatoes; peeled and cubed in a rough, "rustic" manner
Approx. 120g responsibly sourced smoked haddock fillets
Approx. 120g responsibly sourced sea bass fillets
10 to 12 scallops; shelled and without the roe
1 cup broad beans; fresh or frozen (defrosted)
A large clasp of chives, finely chopped
A bay leaf
50 to 70ml single cream
A little celery salt
½ glass dry white wine
Black pepper to flavour
Cooking method
A couple of hours before...
Boil the kettle and, in a heatproof jug, pour about 350ml of boiling water over one of the Earl Grey teabags. Allow to fully cool for at least 20 mins. Place the fish fillets into a shallow dish and gently pour the liquid over it so that it barely covers the fish
Place a lid over the dish and allow to marinate in the fridge. NB: You should only marinate the fish for about 1.5 hours but no longer. Make sure you drain off all the tea from the bowl after that time
The soup base...
In a saucepan with a lid, heat the olive oil on a high heat and add the the onions. Sweat until the onion is soft and translucent, but not yet browned
Add the celeriac and stir vigorously so that it coats with whatever oil remains. Almost immediately (certainly don't wait until it sticks), pour in enough of the fish stock to cover the ingredients and allow them to bubble for a few minutes, stirring regularly
Add the rest of the fish stock and half of the chopped chives, celery salt, a bay leaf and ground black pepper to taste. You may need to add some additional water for sufficient liquid for your soup base; enough to cover the ingredients but no more
Cover and bring to the boil for about 5 mins. Stir thoroughly and reduce the heat, allowing it to simmer for a further 15 to 20 mins
You can prepare the base an hour or so before the final stage of the dish. It's not essential, but allowing it to rest for an hour or longer improves the flavour. If opting for settling time, turn off the heat and leave covered
The final stretch...
Yes, I am a great fan of microwave steamers. But, this one really needs a traditional stove-top steamer. Lay out your fish fillets, skin-down, into the steaming tray with the broad beans scattered around the edges of the tray
Add salted water to the base pot and bring to the boil, adding the second Earl Grey tea bag when it begins to boil. Insert the steaming tray and cover. Steam the fish until it is cooked, but not overcooked, adding the scallops later. NB: Steaming times vary dependent on the thickness of your fillets and the size of your steamer, but fish cooks quicker than you might expect using this method, barely 5 or 6 mins and the scallops will only need 2 or 3 mins. Take off the heat and allow to rest, leaving it covered
Bring the saucepan containing the soup base back to the boil on a high heat, adding the wine. (NB this isn't a dish where too much wine improves it because the cream follows hot on its heels). Cover and allow the mixture to boil for a few minutes
Add the single cream and stir in, allowing it to boil for only a few minutes. Then reduce to a low heat, cover and allow to simmer for a further 5 to 6 mins
While the soup base is cooking, break the steamed fish into generous flakes, removing the skin and any bones
Turn off the heat on the soup base, giving a final stir to ensure the cream is nicely integrated. Cover and allow to rest for a minute
Using a large spoon, gently add the steamed fish, scallops and broad beans. Allow them to rest near the top of the soup rather than stirring them in. Cover and allow to rest for a minute or two
Plate and garnish with the reminder of the chopped chives and a little more single cream if you wish
Accompaniments
Of course, this dish is great with a really good bread. But that rather defeats the low-carb rationale behind what led me to creating it in the first place. Furthermore, it really is filling and you won't be missing anything if you lay off the loaves.
Alternatives
If you're fat obsessed as well as calorie counting, it's actually equally tasty without adding the cream, in some ways even better because the fish flavours and the Earl Grey notes come through even more clearly
Vegetarian - I have done this as a veggie version before, replacing the fish stock with vegetable stock and marinating/steaming cubes of smoked tofu in exactly the same manner as the fish and, indeed, it was very palatable
The red onions will stain the celeriac a rosy pink. If you don't like pink, replace them with white or brown onions, but I don't think it tastes as good
Pairings
Another of those dishes that I've only ever really made when common or garden dry white plonk of the non-memorable variety has been to hand. Must improve that.
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