Jan 111 min read

Greek shepherd's pie

A riff on traditional British shepherd's pie with a distinctly Greek nod to moussaka, this fusion crowd-pleaser is a hearty winter warmer. Greek shepherd's pie is easy to make and also freezes well for popping into the oven when you haven't got the energy to start a proper dinner from scratch.

Montesorri moussaka

I have been on a bit of a bemused fusion tip of late. So, I thought I would drag this one out of storage. In this case it is not a fusion dish borne of my own culinary flair but something co-created by children. It dates from back in the day when I was frequently cooking for a crew of kiddies in Edinburgh, like real kiddies; infants. Some, like most of my family, were very open to all kinds of foods and flavours. Others in this posse were, frankly, fussy or simply weren't good with spicy.

The insurrection started one autumn evening. I had offered to babysit and cook, as I often did; a whirl of wee kiddies tearing through the house, not at all interested in the cartoons I had hoped would sedate them. The truth is I preferred this to being the only singleton at their parents' dinner parties where a little too much wine led to truly irritating fiascos in matchmaking...

On this occasion, I'd cooked a moussaka. But, I was summoned to the large kiddie project table that occupied a corner of our kitchen. Islay, the self-appointed union rep, had notes for me. Her younger brother Robert was pulling pieces of half-chewed aubergine from his mouth and dropping them onto his side plate.

"See here, we dannae really appreciate this stuff," she said, waving a chubby finger in the general direction of the as yet untouched aubergine on her plate. I said nothing. My silence, actually just a moment as I was trying to work out what was going on, was interpreted as disapproval.

"Aye, aye, I know it's aubergine," she continued. "I know it's good for you and our mum probably put you up to this, but we dannae like it. It tastes like snot!" A general murmur of consensus at the table like a Monty Python sketch performed by children. My silence continued. But, by now, it was more a matter of trying to suppress the urge to howl with laughter. She'd never know it was a moment of feeling connected to my own father who loved cooking for kids and the reactions he sometimes encountered. Dear Islay was so vehement. I was worried I might diminish her infant indignation.

She obviously took my silence as upset. "Dannae get me wrong, Kenneth. This bit ( pointing at the béchamel) is lovely, very creamy. It's the aubergine that ruins it."

"Hmm," I said. "So what do you suggest we do?"

"Well, you could stick to cooking shepherd's pie. We all like that. We took a vote." Murmurs of endorsement.

"Or," piped up Freya, a fiercely freckled girl with thick specs who rarely said anything, "You could combine them."

I liked the way she thought. "Combine them? Interesting. How would I do that?"

"Well, y'coul' keep all the bits we like from the shepherd's pie and the moussaka and cook them in one supper without the bits we dannae like." Another round of Monty Python grumbling in consensus around the munchkin table...

"Okay. We'll if you're all in agreement, how's about I do that the next time you all come over? How's that sound?"

"Aye, that'd be fine," said Islay, retaking control. "As long as we all get extra ice cream tonight to make up for the disappointing disappointment." Vigorous Monty Python nodding carried the motion.

So, that's how this fusion dish was created; an ad hoc project by a cluster of Montessori school infants. I was merely the fabricator. Well, kinda: I also "fabricated" in a few more complex flavours about six weeks later. Hey, it was my supper too. And, while I was a bit worried that some of the herbs or heavier flavours would spark dissatisfaction from firebrand tots with bland palates, it proved a resounding hit, not only with the kids, but also with Islay's father when he turned up to pick up the kids. He'd spent the evening pushing rabbit around his plate at a dinner party thrown by a gay power couple always eager to show off their "doer-upper" on the right end of London Road. He left early on the pretext that he needed to collect the bairns. He left without eating a mouthful because it gave him the creeps. "Wee bunnies, y'ken."

We were a trusted haven. He knew I found them a handful too. "Why didn't you say anything, Angus?"

"Oh, that woulda been rude!" I grinned but never told him that his daughter had no such inhibition as I gave him a plate of the newly celebrated dish I'd kept warm in the oven.

Good housekeeping

Anyhoo, that's the long anecdotal way of saying this is a dish liked by kiddies. At first I wondered whether its enthusiastic reception wasn't partly because this Edinburgh tyke posse felt ownership over its creation. But, I have tested it on others since then with the same positive results. So, it is a really good dish for families with younger children.

Adults like it too, not just Angus, underfed by his own politeness. Ravenous students, post-shift medics and post-match rugby players are just some groups with which it's proved a hit, though in the case of the rugger buggers, double up on quantities.

The quantities in this version serve 4 adults, depending on the your side dishes and condiments. Originally, I cooked it in double these quantities because of a larger number of mouths to feed and it worked very well. So, bear that in mind if you need an "easy win" for an extended family meal.

The images here are indicative from a range of occasions, largely cooked in smaller quantities. But, because I was cooking to use half in the immediate dish and half for the freezer, the quantities may appear different in the images.

This dish freezes well. One tip based on experience: if you know already you're cooking it in larger quantities than you will consume in one sitting or as leftovers, prepare the pies for the oven in two or more smaller dishes (use freezer-to-oven dishes or tin foil baking trays). Remove the ones you will freeze about 10mins before optimally cooked. Allow to fully cool, seal with cling film and freeze. This ensures that when you re-heat, it will not dry out or become too browned. Always re-heat in the oven on a medium heat before increasing to a high temperature to brown the top only once you have checked the internal temperature with a meat thermometer and know it's fully heated through. This is about making sure it's nicely piping hot: all the actual components are already safely cooked. But, you don't want to end up with a charred top and tepid lamb inside.

3 top tips to get this recipe right:

It may seem unnecessary to cook some of the vegetable ingredients separately. But, it's a dish made with minced lamb. In my experience, no matter what percentage fat your butcher or supermarket assign to minced lamb, the proof is in the cooking. By cooking some of the vegetable ingredients separately first and adding them later, you can do so once you have poured off any excessive fat, ensuring they never become "greasy" or overcooked in the final dish. Even when cooking the lactovegetarian version I find it produces better results

Feta is one of those cheeses that doesn't really melt, so don't try blending it into your béchamel. Merely add it and fold in at the very end of cooking it. You can use other cheeses such as soft goat cheeses that do cook in. Remember, the point here is not to make the béchamel "cheesy" but to give a little savoury, salty counterpoint. Similarly, keep the quantity restrained

The potato slices in this version are incredibly thin, a lot thinner than in most moussakas. I use a Japanese mandolin to slice them so thinly while raw that they are practically transparent. In many ways, it's because I aim to achieve a slightly crispy effect similar to the potato topping of a Lancashire hotpot, a bit of a challenge given the béchamel. It also means you reduce the carbs slightly. If using these very thin slices of potato, make sure that you parboil them for no more than 3 or 4mins max otherwise they will fall apart, cooking quickly as such thin slices. Of course, if you prefer chunkier potato slices, more akin to a traditional moussaka, that's not a problem. But you may need to use an additional potato to ensure sufficient slices to cover the top

The cooked filling for Greek shepherd's pie

Shopping list

for the Greek shepherd's pie

Approx. 450g minced lamb
2 large onions, (red or brown); diced
2 bell peppers (yellow or red); roughly chopped
the juice and pulp of ½ a fresh lemon
1 tbspn honey
Approx.100g mushrooms; sliced
500ml lamb stock (or beef or vegetable stock)
1 tbspn concentrated tomato purée
3 tbspns black olives; pitted, sliced and roughly chopped
1 cup garden peas; fresh or frozen
3 cloves of garlic; finely grated or crushed
2 medium-large potatoes; peeled and cut into very thin slices
4 to 5 tbspns olive oil
1 tspn fennel seeds
2 tspns dried oregano
a few sprigs of fresh rosemary
a few sprigs of fresh thyme
3 or 4 leaves of fresh sage
2 tspns Worcestershire sauce (or mushroom ketchup)
1glass (125ml) red wine (optional)
2 tbspns unsalted butter
2 tbspns plain flour, sifted
Milk (approx. 200ml)
50g feta cheese; crumbled or very finely cubed
3 or 4 tspns sesame seeds
Salt and black pepper to taste

for the side dish

I usually serve it with one or more of the following

fresh green beans; steamed
broad beans; steamed and dressed with olive oil and a little chopped mint
baby carrots, boiled/steamed, dressed in a little olive oil and shelled pumpkin seeds
fresh salad; leaves, tomatoes, sliced onions... knock yourself out

Cooking Method

the Greek shepherd's pie

Heat 2 tbspns of the oil on a medium heat in the pot (with a lid) in which you will later cook the lamb (if not doing so days before). Add one diced onion. Sauté until soft. Add the chopped bell pepper and about two cloves of the garlic. Stir and cook until notably softened. Add the lemon juice and pulp, reduce the heat, cover and cook until soft
When almost all the moisture has cooked off, add the sliced mushrooms. Season with half of the oregano, and mix in. When the mushrooms begin to soften, add the honey and fold in. Season with salt and pepper and cook until all ingredients are soft but still slightly al dente and almost all moisture has cooked off. Place to one side. You can do this days before and store covered in the fridge
In the same pan (if not cooking days later) heat the remaining oil on a low-medium heat. Add the second onion and fennel seeds, stirring regularly until the onion is translucent. Add the remaining garlic and the lamb before the garlic burns. Add a little more oil if necessary. Ensure the lamb is fully browned, seasoning only with a little salt
If it produces excessive fat, pour it off, keeping the lamb moist but ensuring there is not excessive fat in the pan. Pour in half of the red wine and cook off almost entirely
Heat the stock (in the microwave is fine) and dilute the tomato purée in it. Pour half of this liquid into the pot. Stir vigorously so that it does not stick, bring to a healthy simmer. Simmer for about 4 to 5mins
Slowly pour in the remainder of the stock. Add all the fresh herbs and the rest of the red wine. Season with a little salt, the remaining dried oregano and a generous amount of black pepper. Stir thoroughly. Simmer vigorously for a few minutes. Cover, reduce to a low heat and simmer gently for at least 30mins, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking
After about 30mins on a low heat, the liquid should have reduced by half at least and begun to thicken (if not, increase the heat slightly and simmer for another 7 to 10mins, uncovered). Add the chopped black olives and Worcestershire sauce and stir in. Re-cover and simmer on a low heat for another 15mins
By now, the liquid should have notably reduced. Add the peas and stir in. Recover and simmer on a low heat for a further 10 to 15mins
When the peas are cooked, add the pre-cooked peppers, onions and mushrooms back into the pot and stir in. Simmer until the pie filling is optimally cooked with only a little liquid remaining; moist but not "wet". If necessary, add additional salt and pepper. Remove from the heat, cover and allow it to rest
In a pot of boiling salted water, parboil the sliced potatoes for about 3 mins then drain and rinse immediately with cold water.
Prepare your béchamel (you can actually do this some time earlier). In a small frying pan, on a medium heat, melt the butter until it gently bubbles, then rapidly stir in the flour to create a roux. Pour in the milk, a little at a time, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Only once the sauce has thickened and is lump-free do you add the crumbled feta and stir in. When it reaches the near-optimal consistency, dress with pepper and remove from the heat. Salt only then, after tasting how much salt has been absorbed from the feta
Into an oven-proof dish (or dishes) spoon in the mince mix and layer as a thick, even bottom layer. Use a sieve spoon so that any excess liquid drains off. Pour on a thin layer of béchamel; spread evenly. Add a layer of potato slices, covering the full area of the dish, slightly overlapping, like scales. Repeat this process, alternating thin layers of béchamel and layers of potato slices. Depending on the size of your dish(es), you want about three layers of each. Finish with a very thin layer of béchamel on top of the pie, spreading it thinly with a palette knife or something similar.
Sprinkle sesame seeds evenly over the top and garnish with sprigs of rosemary. When ready to bake (you can store it like this for hours) place in the centre of an oven preheated to 200°C and cook from approx. 20mins. When the exposed edges of potato show signs of being "dry cooked", increase the heat to 250°C and cook for a further 15 to 20mins or until the top has crisped and browned optimally
Plate or take to table in the dish together with side dishes

Alternatives

This fundamentally a lamb dish. But, it works incredibly well as a lactovegetarian dish if you simply replace the lamb with Quorn or soya mince. It may well work with other plant-based minces, but these are the two I know definitely work. Use vegetable stock and ensure you add 1tbspn soy or 1tbspn mushroom ketchup to get it really singing. There are also plenty of vegetarian feta and feta-like cheeses out there made without animal rennet.

In terms of vegan options, I would imagine the options are similar, but I have never made a viable béchamel with a vegan milk and have not had many positive experiences of how vegan "cheese" behaves when cooked. I'm sure it's possible, just not been there yet.

Even considering a pescatarian version seems wrong. Based on the history of this dish, I could imagine a riff on a hybrid of moussaka and fish pie, but that would be an entirely new recipe with a different cooking process. Give it a whirl if you want until I decide whether I might give it a go.

Pairings

The very history of this dish is one that hasn't really involved much thought about booze pairings. Contrary to preconceptions, I wasn't really in the habit of taking charge groups of children while hitting the bottle and largely experienced it with soft drinks.

What I can tell, you however, is that it works fantastically well with Irn-Bru "Scotland's other favourite drink", which, incidentally, also works very, very well with a number of Japanese dishes. Yes, of course I was the responsible adult in the room trying to deftly pass off fizzy water with a dash of apple or orange juice, but no surprise that wee Islay had very strong opinions about what she wanted with her dinner. In hindsight, I'm glad I gave in on the cult soft drink "made from girders in Scotland": it's the perfect pairing.

On other occasions, such as when cooking this dish again yesterday for the first time in a long while, it works very well with red wines that don't try to compete too hard with the robust flavours of the lamb. Yesterday I had it with a perfectly serviceable Californian pinot noir and I'm pretty certain that in the past, I've opted for workaday wines: Côtes du Rhône, Merlot and once even a very good Vernatsch from Trentino-Alto Adige. The whole ethos of this comfort food dish for me is that it is about family, community or spending time together with others. So I'm always likely to serve it up with something down-to-earth and unpretentious that doesn't detract from that.

Greek shepherd's pie with steamed green beans