Most food historians think that this Thai sauce had its origins as a fusion cuisine when the Muslim cooking traditions of Persian and Arab traders arriving in Asia were reworked and assimilated with more prevalent Thai cooking ingredients. Whatever it's true history, it's delicious and plots a different course from the better known green and red curries.
Although only about 10% of Thailand's population are Muslim, it's interesting to note that you rarely see this dish cooked with anything other than beef or chicken, perhaps reflecting its roots in an Islamic dietary regime with particular observances.
This is generally a mild dish in spice terms, making ideal for those who don't like too much fire in the mouth, such as children (of all ages). Traditionally, additional heat is added according to personal preference through sliced raw red chillies used as a garnish when serving. You can definitely add more chillies at the cooking stage if you like your curries hot, but, as one who does, I would advise against it. I've played around with variations on massaman for many years and come to the conclusion that cooking in more heat with chillies actually obscures the subtleties of the delicate spices. Stick to adding your heat as a garnish.
Similarly, this is traditionally the nearest thing to a Thai "meat 'n potatoes" dish often cooked with no vegetables other than potatoes and onion. In my five-a-day-conscious recipe, I use other vegetables. If you want to keep it really "authentic", leave these out and make up the quantities with additional potatoes and onions.
This recipe is for 2 to 3 adult diners. Double up or double down as suits your needs.
Shopping list
Approx. 350g cubed lean beef — or the equivalent in raw chicken cut into large strips/cubes
85g unsalted peanuts
1 large white or white or brown onion, quartered and pulled into segments
300ml coconut milk
A chunk of fresh root ginger, finely grated
3 tbspn massaman curry paste — yes, you can make it fresh but it's quite a palaver. I recommend using the paste from a respected brand such as Bart or your local purveyor of trustworthy spice mixtures
½ tbspn of Thai fish sauce ("nam pla"; น้ำปลา)
¾ tbspn of light brown sugar — use palm sugar if you want to be seriously authentic
1 stick of cinnamon
Approx. 300g potatoes, scrubbed — used whole if very small new potatoes, otherwise cut into large irregular chunks*
2 or 3 large carrots, peeled or scrubbed and cut into thick slices
1 large red or yellow bell pepper, cut into large pieces
100g sugar snap peas, mange tout or spinach, roughly chopped
4 kaffir lime leaves (fresh is best but dried is fine)
¾ tbsp tamarind paste
Thai jasmine rice; about 75g per diner — white basmati is a good alternative
3 to 4 tbspns coconut oil (optional)
2 or more hot red chillies, cut into very thin slices (optional)
A small lime, quartered (optional)
* NB: if you want to reduce the carb content, you can substitute potatoes with sweet potatoes or butternut squash but, since both are sweet—and this is a dish that tends towards sweetness—reduce the sugar. Alternatively, use celeriac, which is not as sweet and use the same quantity of sugar. However, when using any of these substitutes, you need to adjust the cooking time/when you add them since they all cook slightly faster than potatoes.
Cooking method
Spread the peanuts out in a shallow baking tray and toast in the (halogen) oven on a medium-to-high heat, shaking the tray occasionally to ensure they toast evenly. Remove once lightly toasted i.e. make sure they do not end up over-toasted "rich roast". Remove and allow to cool while you prepare the raw vegetables
Crush the toasted peanuts in a pestle and mortar until broken into small pieces but not powdered
In a pot or deep frying pan with a lid, heat 3 to 4 tbspns of the coconut milk (or coconut oil if you prefer) on a high heat. Add the massaman curry paste and ginger and fry for about 1 min
Add the beef (or chicken) and fry for a further minute or two, ensuring that it is fully sealed on all surfaces
Add the rest of the coconut milk and fill half of the can with boiling water, swill it about and add to the pot or pan. Add the fish sauce, potatoes, onion, tamarind paste, kaffir lime leaves, cinnamon, tamarind, sugar and 80% of the peanuts. Bring to the boil and allow the mixture to boil vigorously for 10 to 15 mins
Turn down to a low heat. Add the carrots and bell pepper. Cover and allow it to simmer for at least 40 mins, stirring occasionally to ensure it doesn't stick
When the massaman has been cooking for about 40 min, cook the rice. Add equal quantities of rice and cold water to a pot with a lid. Add a little salt and bring to a vigorous boil. Reduce the heat, cover and allow the rice to fully cook so that the excess liquid cooks off. This will usually take between 12 and 14 mins but cooking times may vary slightly
About halfway through the rice's cooking time, add the sugar snap peas (or alternative "stealth chlorophyll") to the massaman; stir in, recover and allow to simmer
Once the rice is cooked, add to individual dishes or a communal serving dish and do likewise with the massaman. Garnish with chopped chillies, the remaining crushed peanuts and quarters of lime (if used) — or allow diners to do so for themselves at the table
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Vegetarian
The best veggie/vegan versions I have produced involve substituting the meat/poultry with a combination of root vegetables e.g. potatoes and swede or potatoes and celeriac. Alternatively, substitute (smoked) tofu or roughly cut chunky mushrooms for the beef or chicken. With all veggie/vegan versions, you will need to adjust the cooking time, first frying the curry paste in the coconut milk or oil and then adding the vegetables at the appropriate point where the comparable veggies are added in the meat-based recipe.
Please also pay attention to the notes about the relative sweetness of the veggies you are adding. If there is one cliché I detest it's the assumption that vegetarianism implicitly involves the infantilism of a sweet palate to which I was regularly subjected as a vegetarian in the 80s and 90s in crappy vegetarian restaurants. Choosing a vegetarian diet is not synonymous with culinary preferences worthy of the nursery. You have no excuse: do not cook a hideous, overly sweet dish in my name.
Extras
One great way to have the flexibility of increasing the heat at the table to suit a variety of diners' heat preferences it to make a simple sambal of cubed fresh mango, chopped coriander and finely chopped fiery small fresh Thai red chillies, all dressed in a little lime juice. Spoon on cautiously if you manage to get your hands on proper Thai red chillies.
Pairings
I cannot claim to have cracked the wine pairing for this one at all. So, it's going to become another of Karel's big challenges, should he choose to rise to the occasion, not least of all because I have no idea of the availability of good massaman paste options in Hessen... (actually, it seems Rewe does a widely recommended version...)
It is certainly good with beer, most obviously with Thai beers — even though I suspect these don't do it justice. But, "plotting a safe path", I can say it certainly works with Asian traditions of the IPA in many cases.
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