Summer itself; pea, spinach and lemon risotto is a vegetarian meal—vegan if you leave out the cheese—that is another of the healthy archival dishes I remember cooking for kids during the long seasonal holidays.
A vegetarian recipe by default, it's easy to make vegan—and good for those who are lactose-intolerant—by simply by leaving out the bomba (parmesan and butter balls) in the final stage. If you are going for the vegan option, I really advise you take the time to get your hands on carnaroli rice and not the more commonly available arborio rice. By its very nature, carnaroli is the creamiest of risotto rices. I often make risotti without cheese when using it—it simply doesn't need it—or when making seafood versions. Naturally, there's no reason you can't use arborio rice for this recipe, vegan or otherwise.
The dish is a bit like Venetian risi e bisi, but it's not "wet"—unless you really want it to be. However, one thing that is notable about it is that, unlike other risotto dishes, a lot of the key ingredients are added in the last few minutes of cooking and it will absorb a lot more liquid before being ready. And, indeed, the spring onions are hardly from the Italian culinary canon, in fact more Asian in how they're added. Perhaps I should call it "Marco Polo risotto"?
The white wine in this dish is definitely optional—though I always get annoyed with people thinking using wine in cooking for kids is "child abuse": all the alcohol cooks off. However, for this one, the lemon juice, which is not optional, does pretty much the same thing in cooking terms, with the added advantage of tasting like summer.
NB: this recipe does not have fresh basil in it for a reason. Basil is great, but it also tends to counteract the very particular flavours of peas as both legume and plant that are this dish's lead palate note. Hence the use of the dried cumin—which works well with the peas—in the early stages.
This recipe feeds two to three adults. Scale up or down as needed.
Shopping list
The pea, spinach and lemon risotto
1 cup of Carnaroli rice (or any other good risotto rice, more options here)
3 or 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped or finely grated
2 small red onions, cubed
1 vegetable stock cube or jelly, diluted in 500ml boiling water
1 cup green peas, frozen or fresh
Approx. 60g fresh pea shoots
Approx.125g spinach, fresh or frozen
Salt and black pepper to taste
Approx. 4 tbspns extra virgin olive oil
The juice and zest of 1 fresh lemon
1 level tspn dried cumin
3 or 4 spring onions, finely sliced
1 small glass of white wine (optional)
Grated Parmesan or similar hard Italian cheese; approx. 20 grams (optional)
4 tbspns butter, softened (optional)
The salad
You don't have to serve it with a salad. But it's another way to get some of those five-a-day into kiddies (or, indeed, adults), whatever ingredients you favour. On this occasion mine is a simple affair of little gem lettuce, cucumber, sliced small tomatoes and a simple olive oil and balsamico dressing. Mix it up as you wish.
Cooking Method
If you're using the bomba, mix together the softened butter and parmesan and shape into "balls" using two spoons. Place these in the fridge and allow to chill—and become hardened—during the cooking process
Heat the olive oil in a deep pot with a lid. When hot, add the garlic, stirring to prevent sticking. When golden, add the cubed red onions. Sweat for 4 or 5mins
When the onions soften, add half of the lemon juice, the dried cumin and zest. If using, add the wine at the same point and sizzle off. Stir together and allow to almost "caramelise". Add the unwashed rice and seal (tostatura). You can learn more about the right way to complete this important step here
When the rice is sealed, add the half of the hot liquid vegetable stock and bay leaves. Stir, bring to the boil and cover. Allow to boil vigorously for 6 to 7 mins, stirring regularly
Once the liquid begins to reduce, remove the lid and reduce the heat, adding additional stock liquid if it's cooked off. Simmer for a further 5 or 5mins, stirring as needed. From this stage onwards, you'll pretty much stir the risotto continuously while it reduces and work out how much stock liquid—or even additional hot water—you'll need to add. Yes, it's fairly intuitive. Keep stirring and allowing the liquid to simmer off, adding more as needed
Add the peas. Exactly when you add them will depend on whether using fresh or frozen. For example, if using fresh, add the peas about 4mins before you expect the risotto to be cooked. For frozen, add roughly two minutes earlier
When the peas have cooked for a few minutes, at the spinach and pea shoots in turn, about 3 to 4mins before your dish is done. Add the remainder of the lemon juice and stir in thoroughly
From here onwards, stir the risotto almost constantly with a wooden spoon or spatula, adding small amounts of hot water if it appears to stick
When the rice is optimally cooked, remove from the heat. Add the grated Parmesan bomba (if using it) and stir in so that it melts in. Cover and allow to rest for a few minutes
Dress with with a few pea shoots and a little lemon zest. Plate and take to table, serving with the salad
Alternatives
For carnivores, you can add bacon, pancetta or sliced ducked breast once the onions have softened. Seal, and complete the rest of the recipe in much the same way
This dish is by default vegetarian (if not adding the parmesan). But ensure you're using a vegetarian parmesan or none at all if you want it to be vegan. See above.
Pairings
I primarily associate this dish with cooking for kids during summer holidays, so, not really a priority for wine pairings in my former life. I've usually had it with sparkling water and a dash of lemon. But it's great with a lighter Italian beer such as Peroni Nastro Azzurro.
I never thought these words would come out of my mouth, but it's also good with a decent pinot grigio. So far the best pairing I've had with it on the pinot grigio/pinot gris front is a Villa Wolf Pinot Gris; no, don't know which year.
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