There are many stories about the Kashmiri lamb dish Rogan Josh; the differences in the Muslim and Hindu versions, for example. All that goes out the window in this version that is very much based in the Diasporan version I learned to love in Durban in South Africa where its legend was that it had travelled all the way from the Cape. Culinary worlds within worlds.
The top-level story behind this Kashmiri signature dish is that is was one of the many dishes brought to India by the Moghuls and has an overtly Persian influence. I got to know it on the east coast of southern Africa where, apparently, it was "exotic" because it was considered to be from the Cape
My version focusses on the "sweet and sour" combination that rather defines how Diasporan Indian cuisine evolved on South Africa's east coast, combining fruit with savoury ingredients, in this case apricots and fennel.
This recipe serves 3 to 4 adults. Use your pocket calculators as required.
Shopping list
for the Rogan Josh
1 large brown onion (or two smaller), sliced
3 cloves of garlic ; crushed or grated
2 red chillies; finely chopped
A chunk of fresh root ginger (about a thumb's length) finely grated or crushed
300g lean diced lamb
2 tspns cumin seeds, toasted and ground
2 tspns coriander seeds, toasted and ground
2 tsp garam masala
2 tsp ground cumin
3 tsp ground coriander
2 tsp turmeric
A liberal amount of ghee or peanut oil
400g can chopped plum tomatoes
2 fresh fennel, cut vertically into thick wedges
1 fresh lime, squeezed
1 green bell pepper, sliced
1 bunch fresh coriander, stalks and leaves separated
2 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
2 tsp paprika
A pinch of salt
1 x 5cm cinnamon stick
5 cardamom pods, lightly crushed
3 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
2 or 3 fresh apricots, cut into wedges, skins on, stones removed
for the raita
120 to 200g plain organic yoghurt (yes, go find dahi if you must)
⅓ of a cucumber, grated or "spiralised"
Raw onion or spring onion, finely chopped (optional)
A handful of cherry tomatoes or small plum tomatoes; halved
Cooking Method
Crush all of the dried spices (except the bay leaves and cinnamon stick) in a mortar using a pestle (or one of those fancy spice grinders). Sprinkle gently over the lamb and allow to settle for at least 40 mins before cooking
In a saucepan with a lid, add enough peanut oil to coat the bottom and heat on a high heat. When it's hot, but not smoking, add the garlic, cinnamon stick, bay leaves and ginger and stir vigorously, cooking for a few minutes. Add the sliced onion and red chillies and continue to stir
When the onion softens (but is not yet fully browned), add the lamb with all of the ground spices. You shouldn't need additional oil (because lamb is naturally fatty) but add a little if needed. Stir almost continuously so that all sides of the lamb cubes are sealed. Cook for about 4 mins
Add the sliced green bell pepper and stir in. Cover and allow to simmer on a medium heat for at least 4 mins
Add the sliced fennel, stirring in, ensuring that it is coated in the spices and jus forming in the saucepan
When the fennel and green peppers show signs of softening slightly, add the can of chopped plum tomatoes. Then, dilute the stock cube in the can, stirring in 2 tbspns of tomato purée. Pour the liquid into the saucepan. Stir thoroughly, cover and bring to the boil. Allow it to boil for no more than 3 mins, then reduce the heat and allow to simmer, covered. Stir occasionally
On a low heat, allow the mixture to simmer for at least another 20 mins
About 8 to 7 mins before ready to serve, add the apricot to the mixture and stir in. Cover and allow to simmer
During this last cooking phase, stir together the ingredients of your preferred version of the raita in a separate serving bowl
Serve with either rice or naan bread/s and the raita (and/or chutney) as a condiment
Alternatives
This is one of those versatile dishes that is easily re-done as veggie or vegan
If making it veggie/vegan, you've probably picked up on the "sweet and sour" thing going on with the fennel and apricot. So, in keeping with that, my favourite veggie/vegan iteration replaces the lamb with fairly large chunks of aubergine, added at the same time as the fennel in the recipe above. Of the versions I've cooked, I much prefer this to any version I have ever done with Quorn or tofu
For pescatarians, I can say that chunks of cod (added about 7 minutes before serving) and calamari have worked well. Not much experience beyond those iterations
Pairings
This is another in the queue that deserves Karel's attention. Tonight, however, took me in a boozeless direction with a simple orange juice "spritz"; a bit of fresh orange, sparkling mineral water, a bit of ice and a slice of lime...
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