Cullen Skink is a very traditional Scottish dish. Like various chowders, it's become something of a poshy dish; an opening shot on the menu of one great county "hyze" or another. But its origins lie firmly in the humble soup-meal traditions of the Scots.
I confess: my Cullen Skink is a wee bit poncy, perhaps too focussed on the "auld alliance" and the traditions of bouillabaisse rather than what's good for me.
It's a little removed from its lowly origins as a simple haddock-based soup-meal and instead takes up the culinary possibilities inspired by the Scottish east coast and islands above it. So sue me. Nonetheless, that DNA is in there.
I am, once again, making this soup for my beloved Gina for whom I made it a decade ago in Berlin and who has asked me for the recipe.
This recipe is for 2 diners (or 4 if serving as a starter or soup course). Switch on your phones if you want to scale it to another group of of dining buddies...
Shopping list
1 large white or brown onion; diced
A generous knob of butter
Fish stock; liquid or one cube/jelly diluted (alternatively, use vegetable stock)
A generous drachm of whisky (the cheap stuff is fine; best not waste...)
Approx. 2 to 3 medium-to-large potatoes, peeled and cubed
Approx. 125ml full fat milk
Approx. 120g responsibly sourced smoked haddock fillet (better still, real Arbroath smokies if you can lay your hands on them)
Approx. 120g responsibly sourced sea bass fillet
A large clasp of chives, finely chopped
4 tbspns single cream
Salt and black pepper to flavour
3 or 4 scallops without the roe per diner (optional)
Rowan jelly (optional)
Cooking method
No, I'm not using the traditional cooking method whereby you poach the fish in the milk... That's why my Cullen Skink doesn't taste fishy.
In a traditional stove-top steamer, pour your liquid fish stock or fish stock cube/jelly diluted in 1 cup of water into the base pot. Bring to the boil and add the whisky as the liquid heats. Place the filet of smoked haddock and sea bass into the steaming tray above. Steam for approx. 10 min or until the fish is perfectly steamed. Turn off the heat and allow the fish to rest
In another saucepan, add a generous knob of butter and the onion. As soon as the butter melts, add and sweat the onion until soft and translucent, but not browned
Add the finely cubed potato and stir, sealing it with the butter. Before the potato actually begins to cook, add the fish stock from the steamer. Bring to the boil and then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 min
As the potato begins to soften and starts to flake easily, add the milk. Bring to the boil and once again simmer for another 6 to 8 min, stirring occasionally. Add half of the chopped chives, pepper and seasoning to taste
In the meanwhile, flake the smoked haddock and seabass from the skin in large flakes, removing all bones
Checking that the soup has thickened enough (if not, allow it to reduce for a little longer), add the raw, rinsed scallops about 3 min before you intend to serve
About 2 min before you plan to serve, gently add in the large flakes of smoked haddock and sea bass using a spoon
Once ready, turn off the heat and allow it to rest for a minute or so before decanting to a tureen or ladling into individual bowls
Garnish with the rest of the chopped chives and a dollop of rowan jelly (if using)
Serve with a rough, rustic bread and maybe even a side of wilted samphire. Serve without either of these if serving as a hearty soup course
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