An ideal dish for spring: this spring gnocchi with smoked fish is full of light, green flavours with as much filling power as you need if you want a hearty meal.
I make no claims that this is an "authentic" dish. For one thing, I have been repeatedly surprised in my travels around Europe at how hard it is to find any smoked fish other than your common-or-garden-party smoked salmon and, occasionally, a bit of smoked trout or eel. Certainly, good old-fashioned smoked haddock is a rarity on the mainland if available at all.
However, this dish relies on those delicate smoked fish flavours. So it really needs smoked haddock or another smoked, preferably "white", fish that isn't overly salty (I've noticed smoked basa seems to be a cheaper alternative to haddock now sold in many places, though I haven't tried it out on this recipe yet).
Smoked trout works well as does smoked salmon of the chunky traditional variety (i.e. not the stuff of canapes and supermarket sandwiches). What definitely does not work is anything too salty or too oily e.g. smoked mackerel or the oilier end of smoked eel varieties.
This recipe serves two to three adults dependent on portions and accompaniments.
Shopping list
Pesto (NB these are very rough measures because it's all about you personal preferences)
Approx 150g wild rocket (rocula, arugula et al)
Approx 100g grana padano or parmesan; very finely grated
Approx 100g ricotta cheese
A generous handful of almonds (even better if of the smoked variety)
A large sprig of basil
Approx 2 or 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
An egg
Full fat milk (if needed)
The other 500g gnocchi (knock yourself out if you want to make it fresh)
250g smoked haddock (or alternatives; see above)
200g mushrooms ( any larger variety of mushroom works well, anything that can be sliced into relatively thick slices. My go-to is chestnut mushrooms if there's nothing more interesting about)
150g garden peas (fresh or frozen. NB I think garden peas work better than petit pois)
1 lemon
Cooking Method
Spring Gnocchi with Smoked Fish
Add the two cheeses to the blender and add a tablespoon of olive oil. Blend on a high speed; add a splash of milk if needed to help it lubricate
Add the wild rocket a handful at a time until it is fully mixed into the pesto, adding olive oil and/or milk as needed to keep a sauce-like consistency
Add the almonds and blend until fully incorporated
Add the egg and blend until the mixture is smooth to preference, adding salt, pepper and any other herbs you wish for seasoning
Remove from the blender. Store in an airtight dish in the fridge if you are preparing it a few hours before.
Top tip: If you think you've produced more pesto than you think you will use for one meal, remove the excess before adding the egg. You can store this in an airtight container in the fridge for a few days to use later. For example, it makes a delish riff on toasted cheese grilled on top of a slice of ham on toast.
Cooking Method
Heat a little olive oil in a pan and chuck in the sliced mushrooms. Sautée, adding basic seasoning, until cooked, but ideally still a little al dente. For an extra thrill, finely grate some of the zest from the lemon and/or add a dash of white wine while cooking. Be sure to cook off the excess liquid.
While the mushrooms are cooking, boil a pot of salted water for the gnocchi
"Cook" the smoked salmon by steaming in the traditional manner for 10 to 12 mins or in the microwave for 3 to for mins. You don't need to overcook the fish, but unless you fancy the crypto-sashimi version, make sure all of the flesh has turned white. Flake the fish from the skin in generous chunks and discard the skins.
Simultaneously steam the peas, in the traditional manner or in a microwave steamer
Add the gnocchi to the vigorously boiling water. Remember that gnocchi generally only takes a few minutes to cook using the traditional rule: when all the gnocchi are floating, it's ready
Drain the gnocchi thoroughly and return to the pot. Add a little olive oil and gently stir in with a wooden spoon ensuring that all the gnocchi is coated, taking pains to not break them. Add the pesto to preference and stir, ensuing it's equally distributed
In turn, add the flaked smoked haddock, mushrooms and peas, gently stirring in each in turn. Finally squeeze in a small amount of lemon juice (i.e. no more than the juice of half the lemon) and stir
Serve garnished with a little fresh rocket, finely grated lemon zest and cheese to taste (If you used parmesan to make the pesto, use grated gran padano or vice versa).
Variations
It's already a pescatarian dish, but for a veggie version, simply add additional mushrooms and peas to compensate for the smoked salmon. Or, for an extra taste treat, take the time to grill a few courgettes cut into 0.5cm-thick vertical slices. Once grilled, while still warm, coat in a little olive oil and sprinkle over lemon juice and lemon zest and allow these to marinate. Cut into "chunky" pieces before adding to the cooked gnocchi.
Pairings
This is another of those dishes that I tend to make on the spur of the moment so have never really put too much effort into thinking about wines. Certainly it's been great with any of the passable dry white plonk I've had around.
On the non-alcoholic front, it's delicious with the juice from the remnants of the lemon squeezed over ice, topped up with sparkling mineral water and garnished with a few leaves of fresh basil.
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