Emerging from the exile of a second lockdown, two long-in-the-tooth bohemians saunter down a quiet street in London's Queens Park, the first time they've seen each other face-to-face in over a year. Where are they heading? Why, to the amazing Japanese place that's once again able to open its doors...
Housed in a former corner pub on one of Queens Park's main drags, Michiko Sushino is arguably London's most underexposed quality Japanese eatery, especially considering the value for quality it offers. Taking into account just how reasonably priced it is, in many other areas of London this place would be heaving seven days a week. Yet, long prior to the pandemic, it's always been only moderately busy whenever my friend Caron and I have been there. Don't get me wrong, that's one of the reasons we love it; always relaxed and devoid of shrill, shrieking punters. But, we do want it to thrive and worry a little.
So when Caron Kinky, a committed Japafcianado, who's practically a cat in how much she loves raw fish, invited me with her offer of a treat, I couldn't possibly resist. Yes, I couldn't wait to be there again. And, despite our concerns, it can't have been doing too badly, because Caron's mate Michiko has been operating this delightful eatery for quite some time now. The long lockdown showed no signs of it failing to return to its former glory, instantly.
Although Michiko Koshino arrived in London as a hopeful fashion designer in the 1970s, the 1990s really saw her career and fashion brand take off. The first critical mass was the DJs from London's vibrant acid house scene who gravitated towards her clothes that wove a conversation between hip Japanese street fashion, the emerging preoccupation with "luxury sportswear" and even classic tailoring. In a matter of months, every club kid in Shoom wanted to be sporting something by Michiko. Then, within the space of a few years, she was dressing the Spice Girls, Natalie Imbruglia and members of stadium-filling bands such as Placebo and The Prodigy.
"Perhaps, after the infamously perilous, backstabbing world of high fashion, a restaurant seemed like a walk in the park..."
What made her decide to open a restaurant remains a bit of a mystery. After all, hospitality is supposed to be one of the toughest industries to crack. Perhaps, after the infamously perilous, backstabbing world of high fashion, a restaurant seemed like a walk in the park for Michiko. Certainly, there are nods to her other life as a fashion designer in the space—fashion photography and illustrations and a whole wall of international chichi magazines for the patrons' perusal—but these signifiers remain understated and organic. Incidentally, the magazines are a clue: the establishment also functions as a coffee bar. So, you're welcome to drop in for a cappuccino and a snack, flicking through stylish titles as you sip and chomp, and don't have to commit to the full dining experience.
Also, in case you're wondering, this is not a nest of a bitchy clientele of fashionistas eyeballing you as you enter. Its patrons are largely relaxed common or garden Londoners who appreciate really good Japanese food and have better things to do than look you up and down with a condescending eye. No, it's not a hangout for the style police.
Nor is it one of those high-concept restaurants that jump on the bandwagon of the latest craze for an obscure regional Asian cuisine served up with whimsical pretension, questionable authenticity and a fat bill at the end of the evening. Japanese staples such as sushi, ramen, donburi and chazuke are the pillars of the menu, also making it a good option for mixed groups of diners where not everyone appreciates raw fish.
While there are, no doubt, nods to the specific cuisine of Osaka whence Michiko hails, rather than sticking to dishes from one region of Japan, the broad church of traditional cuisine summed up on the menu encompasses versions of these dish types found across the nation of many islands; both traditional and contemporary.
The rice bowls (donburi) and rice soups (chazuke) look delicious, but I confess that I can't claim any direct experience of them because I have never really ventured beyond the sushi and sashimi. It's these I have eaten every time I have eaten here, not because I'm unadventurous, but simply because my mouth starts watering for them the minute I arrive.
"...it's a damn fine thing if you have even only one friend who understands your joy unleashed by this cuisine..."
On our most recent, post-lockdown jaunt, things were no different. Caron and I found a nice spot outside in the clement early summer weather and headed straight into sushi territory. Among the delights we enjoyed were the hanabi, prawn tempura topped with scallops,
tobikko, spicy mayo and crispy onions that, despite the name ("fireworks"), were not overly fiery; a succulent nigiri selection of salmon, tuna, yellowtail, sea bass, prawn, scallop,
eel, mackerel and ikura; and a salmon medley of salmon avocado uramaki, salmon maki rolls, salmon nigiri and salmon sashimi. Naturally we couldn't resist the miso.
I don't need anyone to pat my hand, endorse or otherwise validate my love of Japanese food. It's a damn fine thing if you have even only one friend who understands your joy unleashed by this cuisine, better still if it's her treat.
If you live in London, love Japanese food and aren't severely immobilised, you have no excuse to not drop in at Michiko Sushino. Just as the chilled-out punters are no reason for avoidance, so too are the efficient, welcoming staff a reason to patronise this lovely culinary jewel in a pleasant London neighbourhood.
Comments